Thursday 16 September 2010

Mmmm, Pie


All hail the Pie Queen. That’s me. I am the Pie Queen. This week I have been successfully making a series of the best pies ever, and have therefore crowned myself Queen of Pies.


But you don’t get to be Pie Queen all by yourself. Any potential Pie Queen (Pie Princess, if you will), needs a dedicated team of Pie Courtiers to inspire her and push her towards the Pie Crown. In my case I would like to thank:
Mrs Z, for giving me the blackberries that made me want to make a pie for the first time in years
Anna C. Sloan, for giving me some excellent pastry tips (she is also a Pie Queen, but of a different province)

Pete, for being a willing audience and eater of pies, and encouraging the making and eating of further pies.

All hail Bronwen, Queen of Pies.

But I digress. Let us get to the recipe. This pie is the first pie I made recently, which is an Apple and Blackberry Pie.

Pastry:
200g plain flour
100g butter
1 tbsp icing sugar
Small amount of chilled water

Filling:
1 large cooking apple
Handful blackberries (Zborowski brand blackberries are preferred, but not essential)
Sugar
Butter

The reason I have not made pies for so long is the pastry. My Nan can make amazing pastry, but it has long been a source of consternation to both myself and my mother that it seems almost impossible to replicate. We do all the right things; half fat to flour, rub into breadcrumbs, add water to bind it, leave it to rest, try to keep it as cold as possible. And yet my pastry remained functional but unimpressive. The revelation occurred after speaking to Anna, fellow queen, who focuses on the cold. I usually kept the pastry chilled, but rubbing the fat into the flour necessitates some level of heat. Aha, says, Anna, but I combine them with knives! Knives, say I, well how about that. I see your knives and raise you (dun dun DUN) a food processor! How do like them apples?! Cooked in a pie most likely!

To conclude, I have developed my own method. It is as follows.


Weigh out 100g chilled butter, and cut it into fairly small pieces while trying not to touch it. Dust it with a little flour and stick it in the freezer. Also pour a little water into a mug and stick that in the freezer too. Weigh out 200g flour and sift straight into a food processor along with the icing sugar. By the time you’re done with that the butter should be quite hard. Stick that in the processor as well, and start it up on the lowest setting. As soon as the mix starts looking suitably lumpy (and BEFORE it has completely turned to breadcrumbs) start pouring in the water, a little bit at a time, until the mixture binds and forms a ball. This ensures that the dough has some large bits of butter in, which makes the pastry nice and flaky. Scoop it out and wrap in cling-film, then leave it in the fridge to rest. I tend to make pastry quite late in the evening, and leave assembling the pie to the next day.


Once the pastry is chilled and rested, cut the dough in half. Dust the work surface and rolling pin with flour, but try to keep adding any more to a minimum – the pastry will absorb it and become tough. Roll the pastry until it’s large enough to cover the bottom of your pie dish (which should be well buttered). Prick the bottom with a fork, and blind bake it by filling the base with rice in baking parchment. This will stop the pastry from puffing up. Put in a preheated oven at 200 or Gas Mark 6 for 15 min, then take out the rice and leave for a further 10 min.
While it is cooking roll out the pie lid, leave on a plate and stick back in the fridge.

Now for a tip: I was concerned that as the pastry was quite thin the filling might make the bottom soggy. I wanted something at the bottom to soak up the juice. Flour would turn into a paste, and breadcrumbs would be too soft. I’ve heard that semolina works, but I don’t have any semolina. What I did have was cous-cous. The cous-cous grains themselves are too large and I didn’t want them to interfere with the texture of the pie, so I put them through Mr Grindy with a couple of cloves to make a magical, spicy, juice absorbing powder. I sprinkled this on the base of the pie before I added the filling.


The filling itself I didn’t cook, but layered slices of apple on top of each other, sprinkled over a handful of blackberries and some sugar, and dotted little cubes of butter on top. Then I laid the lid over the top of the pie, poked a whole in the top with a knife to let the steam escape, and put back in the oven for 25-30 min until golden brown.

And how did it turn out? Well how do you expect? I am the Pie Queen.

3 comments:

  1. Pie Queens of the world, unite!

    I've tried rubbing too - in addition to the heat, I also found that it tends to coat the grains of flour with fat, meaning the glutens can't develop properly and the crust turns into a melted mess in the oven (obviously you don't want the glutens to develop very much though, or else it becomes chewy - I'd say that getting the gluten just right is the hardest thing about making a pie crust).

    I DO rub for tart pastry though, which (a) is contained in a tart pan and has nowhere to melt to; and (b) the sugar in it seems to caramelise with the fat and hold things together, making for a nice crispy crust without needing proper gluten development.

    Yes, I am a Pie Nerd. I admit this. xx

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  2. Pie Nerds like pies 3.14 times as much as regular people. Fact.

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  3. "Rubbing for tart pastry" - Anna: is that a euphemism? I myself sampled the Pie Queen's apple pie last weekend and, indeed, she confirmed her amazeability in the pastry department - even better than her nan if truth be told. I'm just about to embark on some mini-apple pies and will keep in mind the above advice.

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